Countless civilisations, regardless of their differences, have agreed on two things – the allure and the significance of gold.
From the Egyptians to the Aztecs, from ancient Greek states to the empires of Asia and Arabia, gold has held a universal and compelling appeal. Demonstrating both purity and rarity, this incorruptible material has also become infused with ritual, power, decoration and love.
Ancient craftsmen discovered gold to be malleable and permanent; to bend to their will and to take shape instantly, holding that form forever. Beautiful to hold and behold, gold became the ultimate precious metal for adornment, as intimate, personal jewellery or more flamboyant symbols of power.
Here are just 10 pieces, each with real presence and importance. But this list will change; these initial 10 have been chosen from a shortlist running into thousands of jewels, all of which speak for their maker and their moment.
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Mesopotamian Headdress
Historians view Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq) as the world’s first truly urbanised society. Fortunately, treasures made from gold survive as testament to the ability of its goldsmiths and their very public craft.
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Clasps from Tillya Tepe
Tillya Tepe literally translates as ‘Golden Hill’ or ‘Golden Mound’ – an archaeological site in Northern Afghanistan. A burial treasure, like the bracelets and crown, this pair of clasps is intricate in detail, portraying reflexive warriors bordered by segments of frond or flower-like structures and accompanied by fabulous birds and beasts
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The Mold Gold Cape
This finely-worked cape of beaten gold is still shrouded in mystery. Is it indeed a cape or a pectoral decoration? Even a breastplate for a horse? Symbolically powerful, a cape or cloak is certainly known to have been a mark of authority in this region at this time.
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Crown from Tillya Tepe
This open work, hammered gold crown is a clever merging of naturalistic and almost architectural shapes. Clustered with gold discs of varying sizes with some pendent to dance on the brow of the wearer, the gleam of the pure gold is partnered by the gentle movement of the whole – a sort of ancient take on en tremblant, perhaps where the crown becomes more noticeable because of its kinetic quality.
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Griffin Armlet
Persian jewellers were masters of modelling in gold and this graphic armlet is a jewel of enormous character as well as technical prowess. The mythical griffin was a fabled creature that incorporated multiple animal and human features into its form; the detail of every part of the beast is breathtaking here.
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Bracelets from Tillya Tepe
These delicately wrought bracelets, accented by pieces of turquoise, a popular gemstone used by these ancient people, is a gleaming reminder of ancient Afghanistan craftsmanship – the simplicity belying the immediate beauty. Redolent instantly of power, status and perhaps protection, the lion (a celebrated creature throughout the ancient world) is here artistically rendered with a definite sculptural aspect.
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Byzantine marriage ring
This wedding ring was given, together with the promise it enshrines, almost 900 years before the first diamond engagement ring was recorded. It is solid and simple in design, prefiguring the modest authority of the classic gold band of today.
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Cellini salt
Benvenuto Cellini created this spectacular salt cellar in Paris, working to a commission from Francois 1 of France. This is universally regarded as one of the greatest of all Renaissance artefacts, a triumph of the imagination wrought in gold. It is Cellini’s only fully authenticated work in the metal.
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Renaissance gold chain
Today, the riches of the Atocha would be valued at hundreds of millions of dollars. For 363 years, this sunken Spanish galleon languished beneath the waters of Key West in Florida. A famous salvage expert, Mel Fisher, discovered the wreck in 1971 and brought this piece to the surface shortly thereafter.
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Egyptian revival
In 1922, Howard Carter’s discovery of Tutankhamen’s tomb in the Valley of the Kings sparked an unprecedented curiosity in the West for all things Egyptian. Carter’s famous first words, “Everywhere, the glint of gold”, alerted the world’s greatest jewellers to the potential of a revival.
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Lalique Swallow
Rene Lalique is renowned as one of the main protagonists of Art Nouveau. His designs in glass may have become more familiar but his jewellery defines his art. This distinctive pendant-brooch reflects the elegance, grace and fluidity that are the hallmarks of his work in gold.
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Passe-Partout
This supreme jewel by Van Cleef and Arpels is typical of that house’s vision and talent. Created during World War II, when scarcity prompted even greater innovation, the piece creates the ultimate in utility wear, as it can be worn in many forms; as a short necklace or one of opera length, as a bracelet, even as a belt.
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Babetto gold cuff
Giampaolo Babetto’s striking cuff presents gold in a futuristic light. Skilfully reduced to pure planes and angles, the minimalism of this piece has more in common with the audacity of modernist architecture than the conventions of traditional jewellery.